A traversing line of heinous crimps and pinches, the problem was established by Czech climber Jana Švecová in June this year. The problem was put up last year by American climber Shawn Raboutou but it. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphane—and Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosi’s training history. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. Steven Potter Published Jun 5, 2023. In a normal climbing session you’ll only need to desperately yank yourself back into place on your hardest projects of the day, while the rest of your session is more controlled. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. The month prior, he ticked the world’s hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Over the past twelve months, he has repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams V17, and Jimmy Webb’s Ephyra V16. Pictures and analysis included. There are about five V17s established in the world, with most of them awaiting second ascents and grade confirmations. If The Big Island Assis is indeed V17, it will be only the second boulder in the world of the grade. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. News. Since July, Bosi has sent two V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. . By Andrew McLemore via GearJunkie, 10/21/2022. . ℗© 2023 Hestal. It happened. The block is located in Lappnor, Finland, and was established by Nalle Hukkataival after three years and over 4,000 attempts – an incredible demonstration of persistence and willpower. 15d (9c) by Alex Megos, Ghisolfi downgraded Bibliographie to 5. He is the first person to repeat two established 9As. On November 19, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Megatron ‘. Download the app . S. com ), is also keenly aware of the need for safe crags. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of "Alphane," a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in. Check out the latest. If. 19, top American boulderer Shawn Raboutou announced his ascent of what could become the world’s third V17. On November 6, Will Bosi made the second ascent of the boulder problem Nova at Holstejn crag in the Moravsky Kras area of Czechia. His success on the project has been a badly kept secret in the climbing world and rumours were circulating as soon as he reported his other 9A, Alphane. Last Wednesday, Allison Vest finished off a nemesis project in Joe's Valley: Pagan Poetry Low (V13). : r/climbing. A long-standing project in Colorado finally gets done, becoming one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. This was shortly after his send of Alphane. ago. It’s nestled in Fionnay, Switzerland, amid other. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Frencesco Berardino has repeated Off the Wagon V16, one of the most iconic lines in the world, at only 19 years old. Dans la vidéo mise-en-line il y a deux. 2. Rumors have been circulating for months that Shawn Raboutou has made not one but two V17 first ascents. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Alphane 9A/V17 | Will Bosi. Categories: News Tags. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style. As previously mentioned, Burden of Dreams is the groundbreaking climb that made V17 bouldering a reality. First climbed in Spring 2022, Alphane has already seen four ascents (by Shawn Raboutou, Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi, and Simon Lorenzi), which makes it the world's most repeated V17 and has given the. 15d), and Alphane (V17). Initially known as the Lappnor Project, Nalle climbed the line in 2016 to establish the world's hardest boulder problem. You can watch his FA of Unison V15 below. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space. Bolts would be better but maybe overkill. Both problems have only one ascent. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. A post shared by Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) Raboutou and Roberts on V16’s . In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. The rig joins the ranks aside Nalle. When asked about it, he simply replied, “I have another cool video coming out soon. DWoods has one of the most impressive bouldering (multiple V17’s), comp (multiple world cups wins), and sport climbing (multiple hard 5. Although only Raboutou managed to finish the line, all three felt V17 was likely accurate. The Erbesfield-Raboutou family is the climbing equivalent of The Incredibles. K. Since the pandemic, he’s made the transition from World Cups to outdoor climbing, and has systematically been sending some of the world’s. Bosi claimed the. The idea of a V17 seemed almost unfathomable at the time. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. 15b’s of his own in Italy, The Lonely. The Dagger V13/14. Raboutou claimed the first ascent of “Megatron,” V17, his most recent mega-hard Colorado project. r/climbing. Other notable ascents are listed below. UKC News 14 Apr 2023. The second video, Bosi and his coach, Lattice founder Tom Randall, sit down to chat about Will Bosi's training development and present tactics. Bouldering is the discipline of climbing in which we have seen the most exponential growth in the past decade. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. . Or maybe Shawn and Aiden working together sped up their process (vs Nalle and Daniel trying their projects alone). "Before that, Aidan Roberts and he both took a similar approach to repeat Alphane (V17/9A). Standards have been pushed to an almost inconceivable level with the establishment of multiple V17s and the news of V15/V16 sends becoming commonplace. In 2022, he repeated Adam Ondra’s Move 5. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. It was the last time anyone has climbed the hard problem, and a new film featuring Lorenzi’s send was just released by. This video reflects on the good and bad of my 1-4-7 journey. 10/7/11 - Another ascent of Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians, Australia, has flown under the radar for about a week. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. 5K subscribers in the socalclimbing community. French minimalist "Barefoot Charles" Albert has announced what he believes is his hardest send to date, L'Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow), proposing a grade of 9A/V17. EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing. Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A. Since his 2018 ascent of Off the Wagon SDS Shawn has continued to cement his reputation by establishing many hard problems at 8C+ and above, including Big Z, Fuck the System and The Story. Will Bosi claims the third ascent of Alphane. Different experience working these types of problems. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. The North Face team returns to Switzerland with the goal to establish cutting edge first ascents. Woods, who has established his own V17 and numerous V16s, has put quite a lot of effort into the sit start and other talented climbers have tried the problem without success, including Drew Ruana, who estimates he has spent 70 days trying the project. Roberts has been on a tear over the past year, with a repeat of Alphane V17, the first ascent of Isles of Wonder SS V16 (below) and a recent first ascent of a V15 – read more about it here. In late 2022, Simon Lorenzi made the fourth ascent of Alphane V17 in Fionnay, Switzerland. This made Will the third climber in the world to have sent two 9A/V17 boulders. 190 in) = 109 lb per inch of penetration ". Although its grade has seen lots of speculation, due to the problem so far. Ghisolfi makes progress on individual. 11)Share your videos with friends, family, and the worldHe’s had an immense amount of success in Switzerland in particular. Will Bosi on what is considered the hardest boulder in the world – Burden of Dreams (V17) ©Diego Borello. (Photo/The Spot Boulder) When The Spot — now known as The Spot Boulder, part of a chain of four Colorado gyms — opened in 2002, it was one of the first. I think this shows the strength of modern boulderers and the rarity of V17 rock. Rumors have been circulating for months that Shawn Raboutou has made not one but two V17 first ascents. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. K. Expand user menu Open settings menu Open settings menuEP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style 1 Nov 2022 · The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Yet. 2-3 nights a week, I hangdog at the gym, maybe take some whippers, do a little flailing, and then drink beer. 1. On Aug. The subtly textured block was established by Aidan Roberts in November 2022 (the same trip where he did the second ascent of Alphane [V17]), after he flashed the. Often i think reframing, meaning helping the climber understand why they are doing something or feel a certain way. Notable Ascents. In the opening scene he. . By 1995, he'd made 2,000 ascents of the line. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoOwen Clarke. ”. I was psyched to recreate two interesting moves I saw from the videos and stitch them together into something @. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in Spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17,. Roberts, who made the second ascent of Alphane (V17) last fall, grew up in Northern England’s Lake District. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the route’s first. On April 6, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Alphane ‘. I would think somewhat intuitively, if you're on a strength training hangboard routine and work up to v10 finger strength* from v5, then probably as a byproduct you'd bump up your route grade from 5. He returned to free the route in 1979—after the first free ascent by Mike Heintz and Tony Trocchi in 1976. Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland broke her own Speed world record with a time of 6. On the Careless Talk Climbing Podcast, which Roberts co-hosts with Sam Prior (and which I find delightful), Roberts has spoken about his progress on the Alphane Right project, which he considers harder than the V17 left exit, and the ultra-crimpy Midnight Project —but only on the podcast’s Patreon page have we really gotten a glimpse of. Second of all, if rappelling, knot the ends of your rope. If “Alphane” and “Megatron” are both confirmed at V17, Shawn would be the first person to have sent two V17 / 9A routes. He’s named the line, which is located on the back side of the graffiti-covered Rocher Brûlé boulder, No Kpote Only. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. William Bosi. He has climbed three 5. What was harder, Alphane (V17) or Burden of Dreams (V17)? Would Will have sent BoD this trip without the replica? 👇Listen to the interview to find out!👇Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. November 2, 2022 at 3:11 PM · 3 min read. Back in October 2022, he spent a session working the moves of Alphane V17 with Shawn Raboutou. Ouça EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style e 233 episódios mais de The Nugget Climbing Podcast, de graça! Sem a necessidade de instalar ou se inscrever Climbing Gold — Hot Henry. All in a couple of months in 2022, Shawn Raboutou put up two first ascents of V17 boulder problems, currently the elusive hardest boulder grade in the world. So the simple session count is an imperfect measure of how much time/effort the boulder took, and how hard the boulder is. Based solely on grade, the title of world’s hardest boulder problem is currently shared by two problems: Burden of Dreams and Return of the Sleepwalker. Again in 2016, Nalle Hukkataival made the primary ascent of the “Lappnor Mission” in Finland. Share. Last year I was really looking forward to seeing US climber Megan Mascarenas compete full time in 2017; she had a really distinctive style of climbing, I don't think any other girl is looking as nearly as static on the problems as she is and that was really impressive to watch. View this post on Instagram. Alphane is a beautiful granite boulder in Chironico, Switzerland, first climbed by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022. Sean Bailey has climbed multiple V15 and V16 boulder problems including Box Therapy V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park and The Grand. He established Soudain Seul V17 in Fontainebleau in 2021 and then repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17 in 2022. The 40-minute film showcases many Roberts hardest sends including Alphane 9A, Isles of Wonder Sit V16, and Vecchio Leone Sit V16. The second video, Bosi and his coach, Lattice founder Tom Randall, sit down to chat about Will Bosi’s training development and present tactics. Download the app . French minimalist "Barefoot Charles" Albert has announced what he believes is his hardest send to date, L'Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow), proposing a grade of 9A/V17. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. Climbing - Steven Potter. Alexander Megos ended the year in style by redpointing First Round, First Minute (9b/5. Writing on his Instagram, Aidan said: 'This one was a pretty amazing experience to live. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. 18th November, 2022. At 24, Aidan Roberts just became the fourth climber in the world to successfully send a V17. Natalie Berry UKC. . You can watch the full climb no. He currently sits at the top of 8a. Nick Brown UKC. Alphane V17 (9A) (Shaw Raboutou doing the FA, and the Mellow crew) Sessions: Kingdom Wall (Aidan doing the FA of a V15/8C) Aidan Roberts Crushing in Colorado. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. If “Alphane” and “Megatron” are both confirmed at V17, Shawn would be the first person to have sent two V17 / 9A routes. Hallgasson EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style és még 236 epizódot ettől: The Nugget Climbing Podcast, ingyen! Nem szükséges regisztráció vagy telepítés. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. com. The problem links a V15 start into the V14 Tron, a stand start version of the problem first put up by Woods in 2017. Gripped December 16, 2022. After he announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. The V17 / 9A bloc was first established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016 and has seen countless pros visit without a send – until now. It has since seen two repeats , one by Aidan Roberts , who got the first repeat later in the year in October and then by Scot Will Bosi in November of the same year. They're effectively a Free-to-Play option. The subtly textured block was established by Aidan Roberts in November 2022 (the same trip where he did the second ascent of Alphane [V17]), after he flashed the stand-start version Vecchio Leone (V13) that March. Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser). A few. Will has shared some details of his experience on the boulder, and some initial thoughts on the grade. Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) finally sees a repeat by Scottish climber Will Bosi. Categories: Video Tags: News. Having announced two V17 FAs in the span of three months, Shawn cemented his position as the world’s top boulderer. Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson —. He also put up a V16 of his own, Honey Badger in the U. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. The boulder sits left of Alphane Moon, a classic V11 , and was discovered by Dave Graham. "In total he spent 24 days working the problem and this is the longest Bosi has spent on a single boulder problem - by comparison, Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland took 12. He hit the deck and sustained minor injury to his feet, hips and back. El joven escalador norteamericano Shawn Raboutou estableció el cuarto 9a de boulder, realizando la primera. , Ghisolfi also spent a day working the moves on the now famous Burden of Dreams V17 replica with Bosi. Check out The Lappnor Project for info on the full-length film. For a 3-4 move V17, those guys might have to spend months before they even do each move individually. Adam Ondra is the only one to climb 2 grades harder (or Will Bosi as well if king capella gets. But Drew is certainly building one of the most impressive bases of 14s, 15s, and 16s while also studying for an engineering degree. r/climbing. Aaron Pardy November 16, 2022. instead of projecting Alphane or Megatron, then it seems pretty likely he would have a similar “résumé. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of "Alphane," a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. mmeeplechase • 7 mo. The 24-year-old has confirmed the grade as 9A/V17. Watch on. The. 1M+ downloads. Rumors have been circulating for months that American climber Shawn Raboutou has completed two eye-popping boulder projects. 3/30/10 - The Bishop Bouldering Blog has reported that Paul Robinson sent his long-time project at the Buttermilks in Bishop this morning. Another Link Cam failure, climber hit the deck. Shawn Raboutou is absolutely on fire right now. 6" - 40mm - deep 3 finger pocket. That’s simply because the route has been known about and attempted for years. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line. Trying hard is more the consequence of me doing everything else perfectly: of staying calm, clear minded, and executing the moves. Now two new videos have dropped about him. In 2022 alone, Bosi climbed. ’s first two of the grade: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Sit. Nichols made the first ascent on aid in September 1975. Instead it's about forming a consensus on what v17 should be. Shawn Raboutou on Burden. During my Swiss trip for the first RedBull Dual Ascent competition on the Verzasca dam, I had the opportunity to explore the astonishing bouldering area of C. I’d imagine there’s a lot of doubt in the latter situation as to whether the moves will ever go, that might make it tough mentally to devote the time necessary to sending. Alphane (V17) Alphane is a testament to Graham’s vision and perseverance. For example if alphane was easier than burden, then it's a decision to be made if both are v17, or are they v16&17 or v17&18. Hestal. The 21-year-old talked with Tom Randall about the problem and the process – you can listen to. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. In a stoke-filled Instagram post, Roberts described a joyful process for ticking off “ Alphane ,” established by Shawn Raboutou in Fionnay, Switzerland, in August. 1M+ downloads. . As though this wouldn’t be enough to make it on the list, Shawn also made the first ascent of The Story of Three World’s V16, climbing it. Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker and. EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style. A post shared by William Bosi (@will_bosi) Dominik Bösch on Act of Grace and Graceland. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder development. 15c. It features Roberts making the first ascents of Out of Shadows (v13), Back for Seconds. It’s OK to Love Yourself If You Don’t Climb 5. Sometimes it's very focussed on climbing, sometimes climbing barely comes up. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the route’s. According to Bosi, Terranova has “some of the worst crimps and pinches [he’s] used,” which says a lot for someone who repeated both Burden of Dreams V17 and Alphane V17. After Alphane V17, he sent Megatron V17, in Coloardo’s Eldorado Canyon. The withdrawal force per inch of penetration can be estimated as F = 2850 (0. After Spending 10 days on the replica in the Lattice Training Center, and 3 weeks projecting in Lappnor Finland, Will Bosi sent Burden of Dreams on April. There are about five V17s established in the world, with most of them awaiting second ascents and grade confirmations. 15b) in Margalef, Spain, on the last day of 2015. Dreams was the first proposed V17 after the Finnish climber took the problem down in September 2016, following over 4,000 attempts and six seasons. Shawn Raboutou has been taking the climbing world by storm in recent years, defying gravity with his superhuman strength. 15c] with his FA of King Capella in Siurana, Spain. . In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Video escalada: Alphane V17, el cuarto 9a de boulder propuesto por Shawn Raboutou 26/09/2022. 15c’s: Excalibur in Arco, Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Change in Flatanger, and Bibliographie in. 1. New V17’s have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh, has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. Check out this exclusive interview with the man with the strongest fingers in the business! Nice one Will!He believes the grade is lower-end V16, harder than his recent send of Forgotten Gem V15 but easier than Honey Badger V16 or Alphane V17. 22. Instead, he worked the climb at Lattice Training’s. View this post on Instagram. 726K views 1 year ago. Shawn Raboutou making his ascent of Alphane (V17) ©MattyHong. Another Link Cam failure, climber hit the deck. . The boulder sits left of Alphane Moon, a classic V11 , and was discovered by Dave Graham. The only other suggested V17 is Nalle Hukkataival’s 2016 problem Burden of Dreams, located in the forests of Finland. Alphane has become the most repeated V17 boulder in the world. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. ’. The North Face presents: ALPHANE. If you are not familiar with. . The V17 boulder links a V14 into a V15 into an “easy”. don't know the actual year but that's the video that got Jorgeson's attention. Last fall, he made the third ascent of Alphane (V17). This article originally appeared onPay attention to how much you’re cutting feet as you get tired. View this post on Instagram. It is now the second to have been repeated with Soudain Seul having had three ascents in total. In a bouldering video released last August, local pro climber, Shawn Raboutou, is featured making the first ascent of Alphane (V17), one of the world’s hardest problems. 15’s) resumes of any climber. Originally graded 5. Climbing was a natural calling for both kids from their toddler years. Subscribe. S. Charles Barkley has been roasted plenty o. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. Watch on. British climber, Will Bosi, continues his jaw-dropping year of hard bouldering sends with his ascent of Ephyra V16. A post shared by Aidan Roberts (@aidan. Eastern time, Shawn Raboutou reported the first ascent of “Alphane,” V17, in Fionnay, Switzerland. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in Spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17, making it at the time. 8K. Have a question about what color carabiner speaks to your soul? Want to talk some smack about pebble wrestlers? Wondering how chalk buckets work?Noah Walker May 18, 2022. " - Climbing MagazineHe was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up numerous V16 first ascents, including the U. Download the app . Nalle Hukkataival sent Burden of Dreams in October 2016, making. 03:02:34Download the app . Will Bosi has made the first repeat of possibly the hardest boulder in the world “Burden Of Dreams”. Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoChris Sharma working on the first ascent of First Round, First Minute. In a press release sent out earlier today, Will said: 'A. You can watch his and Bertone’s. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17. Roberts, 24, has accumulated an impressive list of hard bouldering ticks. There are certainly climbers that have done more V17 boulders if that is the benchmark of "strongest". Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. The latter took him three days of effort. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. As though this wouldn’t be enough to make it on the list, Shawn also made the first ascent of The Story of Three World’s V16, climbing it. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Shawn Raboutou is the only boulderer in the world right now with 2 9A/V17 ascents under his belt. If Alphane is confirmed to be Font 9A, Will's ascent will make him just the 8th person to have climbed the grade. Earlier this month, he made the coveted second ascent of Burden of. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. 6 sessions in Alphane might be the same number of quality tries as 10 in Burden (hypothetical numbers). Shawn sent Alphane in April 2022 (but didn’t announce it until August 2022) after 25 sessions spanning over a few months. The route, first climbed by Chris Sharma in April 2011, is the young German’s hardest redpoint yet. Like, finding a crimp line that goes at V17 is ridiculous, because a couple degrees of overhang or literal fractions of a millimeter of extra pad space makes or breaks the whole line. Today on Instagram, he finally put those rumours to bed with his announcement of his first ascent of the longstanding Megatron project in Colorado’s. Update August 22, 2022: In conjunction with The North Face, Mellow released the footage of Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Simon Lorenzi On Making the 4th Ascent of “Alphane” He spent 20+ days on the climb and says "Alphane". Alphane is the third or fourth V17 in the world depending on who you ask (Soudain Seul technically holds the position but the grade is debated). After repelling numerous suitors since Hukkataival’s FA in October 2016—including Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Aidan Roberts, Giuliano Cameroni, and Toru. EP 142: Aidan Roberts. The problem adds seven moves of V15 climbing into Tron, V14, a line established by Daniel Woods in 2017. I think it's less about reaching the max of what humans can do, and more about the margins involved making it so unlikely to find individual V17 moves in nature. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Welcome to r/climbing's Daily Discussion Thread, a thread for questions and comments everyone wants to make but don't warrant their own thread. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoThis is the first ascent of the world's third suggested V17. Analysis of Filip Babicz and Bring Da Ruckus . You can watch his and Bertone’s sends of Satan I Helvete Bas V14 below: Simon Lorenzi on Satan I Helvete Bas Oriane Bertone on Satan I Helvete BasFrencesco Berardino first saw a video of Shaw Raboutou on Off the Wagon three years ago. This year, Shawn Raboutou established Alphane and Megatron and graded them both V17 – read more about them here. I was wondering if anyone has done this or has any advice on designs. Stephano Ghisolfi Tries Alphane V17 In new video, Ghisolfi meets up with Shawn Raboutou to attempt the moves on one of the hardest problems in the world. Shawn Raboutou is the only boulderer in the world right now with 2 9A/V17 ascents under his belt. Gripped April 29, 2023. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17. The screws had 3 inches of thread each so thats 654lbs i think it will hold for a while before that force deteriorates to my body weight. Aiden Roberts talked about this difference on a recent. Both are currently graded V17 (9A). Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. He first spotted this line in the early 2000s but abandoned it, as V15 was then the hardest established grade. After his FA, Roberts acknowledged just how deceptive the sit-start turned out to be. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of “Alphane,” a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. E48: Beth Rodden - Lessons from a dramatic career at the top of the sport May 31, 2023. It’s a powerful problem on a big boulder at the edge of a field in Val Bavona, Switzerland. In total, she put down 16 double digit boulders, two of which were V14. Bosi claimed the. A friend of mine was climbing on 12/8 in Oklahoma when he fell onto 2 Omega Pacific Link Cams. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of "Alphane," a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival, October 2016. Belgium’s Simon Lorenzi, best known for making the first ascent of Soudain Seul—a. .